New Battery fixed transmission problems

[Charlieh88]

I had Transmission problems on 2014 Ford Focus SE, OBDII code P285?, P 287? and P2872. Transmission would not shift into second so I changed Transmission Actuator that worked for one week, then it would not shift into 3rd, I cleaned all grounds of paint and used dielectric sealant no help and changed the other Actuator on Transmission Ford PN AE87 7C604 A.This worked for 2 days then Back to same problem but now battery voltage was 11.7, I checked for a drain on battery using a test light between battery negative ground and and Negative lead just normal dim drain on battery. I installed a new battery its been one week all seems normal no codes, Transmission was reset. and Throttle Position Sensor was rest after every repair. Thanks to this forum I was able to stay on track except for the battery, My bad: I should have checked Battery . Voltage for a minimum of 12.4 Volts with vehicle not running, Just because the car starts and the alternator charges the battery you still need to check the Battery. The Battery I brought was another Walmart battery 24F, cost 60 dollars warranty one year.

 

[Charlieh88]

Update: Fix lasted 4 days then code P2852 and P2832 still pointing to replacing TCM, I Checked fluid Level in Transmission with car level. I drained 2 Quarts of fluid from Tranny then added two 2 bottles of Lucas Transmission fix and topped off with Transmission fluid. Drove car after 20 Miles I had Transmission Failure message again, I reset transmission again and drove 120 miles . It may have been necessary for Lucas fluid to circulate for more days, if it happens again I may add 2 more bottles Of Lucas transmission Fix, do yourself a favor heat bottle with tin foil seal off. I heated bottle in Microwave for 3 minutes in Microwave it helps it flow this stuff is like Molasses..
Little history on my car this was a salvage vehicle I purchased in 2018 with 53K miles this car now has 109K. I learned a painful lesson about salvage vehicles: Vehicle recalls do not apply, if you want the recall repair, you haver to foot the. bill yourself.

 

[Handy Andy]

Did you keep the old parts?

Once this condition seems to repeat, then adding different fluids, it might be better to reinstall the old part to see if the system recovers.

Unless you can verify the Actuator you got is brand new and not a refurbished from another system...

Might be safer to swap the old actuator to see if the codes continue.

Then the TCM is causing the fault, but make sure your system connections to it are clean...

There have been several changes to the fusebox for the vehicle thru the model years, but if you have time - do what you can to check, even lift and reseat - connectors used in the fusebox to prevent the NEW TCM from suffering the fate of the older one.

Why? I call it connector memory, but the concept is that old connections when broken to reinstall another connector - the old connection and spots of metal contact used in, and left behind from the old physical connector - might not seat fully to the new one - or provide the best low ohmic path for the TCM's power - which can generate these hiccups and because of the extreme heat, vibration and environment it's lived in since the last service interval - well, I hope you get the idea.

It may wish for the old days...​

 

[Charlieh88]

Did you keep the old parts?

Once this condition seems to repeat, then adding different fluids, it might be better to reinstall the old part to see if the system recovers.

Unless you can verify the Actuator you got is brand new and not a refurbished from another system...

Might be safer to swap the old actuator to see if the codes continue.

Then the TCM is causing the fault, but make sure your system connections to it are clean...

There have been several changes to the fusebox for the vehicle thru the model years, but if you have time - do what you can to check, even lift and reseat - connectors used in the fusebox to prevent the NEW TCM from suffering the fate of the older one.

Why? I call it connector memory, but the concept is that old connections when broken to reinstall another connector - the old connection and spots of metal contact used in, and left behind from the old physical connector - might not seat fully to the new one - or provide the best low ohmic path for the TCM's power - which can generate these hiccups and because of the extreme heat, vibration and environment it's lived in since the last service interval - well, I hope you get the idea.

It may wish for the old days...​

Thanks for reply: When I had actuators disconnected I first used contact cleaner on connections, no joy I replaced actuators New from Ford dealership, one at a time worked for a while and the first 5 times I had transmission Failure message I could reset car next day and Message would say: Transmission Ready now when I go thru the reset procedure for transmission I get nothing. I will check any fuses associated with TCU/TCM are there any others I need to look. at ? I get code P285? as soon as I start car with transmission in Park. If I move from park to reverse or neutral to drive I get code P2832. Thanks for any help

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok, this tells me the Transmission is done, it needs service - a Shifter fork is stuck or the TCM can not determine the ASPECT of where the fork is - engaged or not.

These things are made a lot like an ordinary manual transmission for shifting - so they use sync gears and forks to push and pull levers to place gears into and out of the drive line to connect to the output shaft.

So, to help with this - think of the actuators are the fingers - the transmission is the in-dash old-style pushbutton knobs that force the radio dial to move as the tuning coils, caps and cans also follow this friction bar to the correct position

​

You didn't lose the Actuator, you lost the transmission - it needs service - you lost a gear, at least it's ability to mesh into the driveline and these P-codes and Information display is the way it tells you that. The Actuator is the probable cause but the mess in in the transmission.

 

[Armando G]

It sucks that these transmission issues were just given a bandaid as a fix even under warranty. We own a '13 & a '15 and had both in to the dealership a few years ago to get the transmission replaced and now the '15 is starting to give us the same problems. The dealer did say the battery was weak and it was replaced, which did seem to make a difference, but we are getting the shuttering again. Time for another car.

 

[kodpkd]

Did you put the dielectric grease on the contacts?