Windshield Washer Issue

[TClark]

I have an issue with my windshield washer that has me stumped.

The windshield washer stopped working recently. When you push the washer button nothing sprays, and the windshield wipers do not go. The wipers do work on low and high.

I checked the fuses with a test light and all are good. I checked to ensure there is power to the washer pump which there is. When the washer button is pushed, you cannot hear or feel the pump running.

I though the issue was the pump, so I replaced it. However it did not change anything and I still have the same issue.

What’s strange, is that if you unplug the washer pump and push the washer button the windshield wipers run three to four cycles as they should. If you plug the washer pump back in, the wipers don’t work again when pushing the washer button.

Is there a relay or control module anywhere for the washer pump?

 

[Handy Andy]

The Body Control Module is located behind the Glove Box - open the Glove box, empty the contents, and gently pry inward the two "tabs", they hold the door to the front Dash console, the glove box folds down and allows you to look and view the Body Control Module - and it's bunch of fuses.

This Thread may help you see or locate that Glove Box fuse assortment...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/2013-fiesta-no-heat.7759/#post-17430

Look in your owners manual - you'll see somewhere about Page 170 - a set of fuse box locations - and the outlines of the fuses used and their purpose.- you're looking for the Body Control Module one.

Hope this helps get you started.

 

[MarTone]

I have the same problem. The fuse have no problem. I disassembled the washer button and cleaned. The motor was tested with other 12V adapter and it works both way with polarit change. Multimeter showed the cabel has power but it does not work with a brand new pump as well. When I disconnect the pump the wipers run 3 times as normal and the rear wiper can do the same when I pull the button.
Anybody has any idea what can I do?

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok, this may require you to take apart the front steering wheel, that means removal of the Horn button and that contains the two bombs they call Air Bag (SRS Air Bang).

Why? Because the clockspring itself is not the issue, but the cover to house the switch both the Hi-LO-Beam and the Turn Signal and the other which houses the Wiper Front Rear - intermittent and WASH for both - will need to be inspected You can remove the upper and lower cover/shroud so you can see and check the connector. But the switch replacement - although simple, will require the battery to be disconnected so you don't have those airbang bombs going off while you're threading the switch into the housing/holster that you're pulling the old one out from.

​

• First Things First...
• Presuming you did check the hoses for blockage and cleaned the lines and nozzles.
• Fuses were good you were able to check the motor on a separate power supply and it works.
• The switch itself - uses DC but REVERSES the polarity to the motor to make it run opposite so the valve in it then forces fluid out a different port.
  • So when this is checked - the leads of the tester can stay in place, but you have to verify the POLARITY of the meter does change from Positive to the Minus or Negative symbol - this would show the polarity of the wires are reversing - when you tell the system to wash the Front then you tell it to Wash the Rear - that is when the Polarity reverses..

Why does the Multitester show power to it, because of two things - one the corrosion around the MOTOR Spade (tang) Male/Female contacts that wiring is - may be - corroded. This makes a weak or resistive connection. Voltage may be able to be found there, but when you put in the motor - the power it needs might not be there due to that level of corrosion is enough resistance to prevent the motor from working.

The other may be due to the load the tester does not place on the connections. IF the measurement impedance of the tester (a rating) is HIGHER than the resistance the line has at the point you're checking - then the meter can show voltage - just not enough to let the motor pull the power it needs to make it work.

But, there is enough of a voltage to check but the leads being resistive due to the corrosion? Yes, it - might show a voltage but when you place more of a demand or LOAD on the line - can that power in voltage reading, stay up there to keep supplying that voltage?

How you do know?

Use a simple circuit checker - the one that lights up when it sees power. You'll need to pull current too, so that motor if it doesn't work, you'll have to see if there is enough current to power it.

​

A multitester meter is a HIGH-impedance device - means that it is not supposed to load down the circuit it checks. It's designed to measure - not act as a load. So corroded wiring may show good and has power when checked using it, but you might want to check to see if it can pull the POWER needed to run the motor - that requires Current - not just the voltage. but due to the RESISTANCE in the connection at those contacts - the wiring is not able to support the current draw needed by that motor to run (about 2 to 4 Amps) that the switch on the steering column has to support.

Then if the lamp lights, the connector(s) need to be worked up or tweaked to make contact similar to what the OEM original one had used and oriented as, for the original life time it was in that position. So you may need to clean it out. Some people due to the age of the connector - simply buy a pigtail and wire it in to replace the old connector with a new one.

• It is not uncommon to have the connector and the pigtail - even though they have the same pinout, same connection figure, and even the proper tabs - and tangs male and female - they should fit right?

​

• You will need to verify the tabs on the body of the part, will match and fit with the connectors own.
• This has been a issue with aftermarket and ordering parts for older vehicles that are no longer in production or supported by their automaker.
• The connection on the replacement part, has a different size tab so the electrical connector may seat, but the tabs never make connection because the tab to socket are the wrong size and or cannot reach their mate in the body of the connector.

IF that doesn't you'll need to backtrack, backprobe the wiring harness to find the break or poor connection so you can splice or replace that part of the harness. This also includes all the way back at the dash console and steering column.

I will caution you, the harness - being where it is, can set off the SRS light because of the amount of work that has to be done in there, so the tilt and telescopic steering wheel it is, can wreak havoc with the harness - even thought it is designed to fit and work within the reach - we cannot be held responsible if the SRS system ignites while you work on the dashboard.

 

[tabijan]

I posted a question in this thread - https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/washers-and-wipers.9387/ -> post 10.

The wipers wipe as expected in washer mode - front 3 + 1 - with the pump disconnected but no spray and no wipes with the pump connected. I think this acquits the switch. The problem is with the BCM, wiring or pump - which other hums and twists when hooked directly to 12V. Next step to try a test light as suggested, then maybe a $15 pump.

I don't have Forscan but can it activate the pump and check for BCM fault codes?

Sixto
14 SE hatchback 145k miles

 

[Handy Andy]

I don't have Forscan but can it activate the pump and check for BCM fault codes?

This system doesn't use Forscan directly to control or even check wiper action for they are switch related - physical - not remote. So the principle of feedback is not there.

But they do use relays - is your car's electrical relays ok?

So the pump itself is shot. But also verify that the switch integrity is good, for the pump failing can make the switch contacts find other routes to ground by other means - including a failed-shorted pump giving the wipers a path to ground.

 

[tabijan]

I thought Forscan could actuate features through the GEM since pump relays are in the GEM.

I spent time with it and observed:

- rear washer works as expected
- front washer doesn't work - no 3+1 wipes when pump is plugged in, 3+1 wipes when plug isn't plugged in
- key on, engine off and with a cheap DVM, I see about +7.5V on pin 1 of pump connector, +7.5V-10V on pin 2. Press front washer switch and pin 2 drops to 0V. Press rear washer switch and pin 1 drops to 0V.

To the points you raised:

- I haven't noticed other electrical problems
- pump is not shot; it hums in both polarities on the bench, is sprays when rear washer is selected
- I assume the switch is good since is rear washer works properly and front does 3+1 wipes when pump is disconnected. I suspect the GEM recognizes a problem with pump in front washer mode and disables the 3+1 wipes accordingly. I saw this behavior in another car when the pump failed.

I don't recall whether the rear washer worked during initial testing but it works consistently now. I don't know whether the 7.5V-10V pin 2 reading is my cheap DVM or an accurate reflection of what's going on in the GEM. My conclusion is the front washer circuitry in the GEM is shot or in need of a reset.

Sixto
14 SE hatchback 145k miles

 

[Handy Andy]

Then this brings up another point, it's really schematics but does the pump flow fluid out of both ports?

You said you hear a hum when you work the motor and even when its in reversed polarity - and now you notice the rear washer works.

OK, this brings up a separate point of; if the valve that redirects is starting to work, do you have debris or other obstruction even in the hose couplings?

Why? For it is possible the motor may be good, but there is either dirt or the hoses are kinked and the nozzles are plugged in the front - but the rear one will work because of pressure from the obstruction either at the pump or the line to the front nozzles are letting enough pressure build to let the valve push fluid into the still working port even though the pump is supposed to be in reversed direction - there may be enough pressure in the line to make the pump divert the fluid as a means to relieve the pressure built up in that line going to it, from the obstruction...

To Add...

Since the switch shows that polarity reversal seems to occur, but you'll need to verify using continuity - as in testing the pin to know that 0V is going to a known ground (Using a DVM that has Continuity thru a BEEP at the meter is desired to help using auditory response when you're too busy fiddling with the test leads and switch - using all the dexterity you got) and not left floating at the mercy of the motors desire to operate and so it shows coil is grounded but no power at the pump for one wire is abraded and is striking ground making it appear as the motor is working - but only in one direction. This would normally pop a fuse but - the original condition is what brought you here...so I still think it's debris for the pump was separated from the tank possibly by freezing and then that may also mean the valve in the pump is damaged and has spewed plastic into the lines so they'll have to be blown out to clear them.

 

[tabijan]

Thanks! I'll do more thorough testing.

Hum from the motor in both polarities is on the bench, off the car. It only hums with rear washer when installed in the car. I'll expand the bench test to check for flow.

Do auto parts stores scanners used for free testing display B-codes or only P-codes?

Sixto
14 SE hatchback 145k miles

 

[Handy Andy]

Many Auto parts stores offer OBD scanners, not Forscan, but they can only check for what they are programmed and enabled to "sees" being ABS, SRS, TRAC, BRAKE ECM, Fuel Emissions - these scanners vary in the types of functions they can perform so check with a local store and see if they have a Scanner that can work the GEM unit.

So when you're looking at Chassis or Body - the scanner may not be able to detect or poll the vehicles network to locate the modules you're trying to see if they work of not.